Numero 3 - The days of crazy guys & 'Container Cities'.

Arriving in Salina Cruz this afternoon, which is on the south west coast of Mexico, I was greated by a cacophony of noise. A combination of people, cars & some sort of crazy birds circling the city centre, filled the air with noise, as if some sort of carnival was in town. It's the usual fanfare though. Even in the smaller places like Mitla, which is nothing more than a tiny village. So tiny, that they don't bother with placing it on most maps.
Before we get to Mitla & Salina Cruz though, lets rewind a few days. I eventually found myself in Puebla. A fantastic town surrounded ominously by 3 semi-active volcanoes. Also a town that recently suffered an earthquake back 2009. Puebla is also steeped in history. I was told by a local while sitting at the colourfully named 'Container City', that Puebla is the oldest continuosly inhabited town in the Americas. I happened to stubble upon 'Container City' while wondering through the old part of town. All the cobbled stoned streets, old Mexican drinking halls & street vendors with traditional home made goods. The scenes you've imagined about Mexico you'll find in Puebla. 'Container City' is just what the name says. Using some imagination, the locals decided to use old containers & convert them into bars & cafe's. Perfect for the boho, hip & arty crowd found in the Cholula area where 'Container City' is situated.

My first attempt of getting out of Puebla proved a monumental failure. Once again my lack of knowledge saw me heading in the wrong direction. When I eventually figured out my north from my south, the real tragedy started, well maybe not tragedy, that's a bit strong. Not one single ride. It's fair to say the lack of interest showed by passing cars left one feeling down in the dumps, then again, to quote 'Coldplay', 'Nobody said it would be easy'. I was actually glad to spend another night in Puebla. Like all Mexican cities, Puebla has a Zocalo, or city center. Everybody gathers there, so it lends itself to a real party vibe. Overlooking the city center is the traditional Spanish cathedral. Families, teens & young romantics alike. the Zocalo is the place to be at night, whether to start the night, spend the night or end the night.

A new day brought with it new energy, positive energy. And that positive energy was well founded as within 15 min I was heading due south to Oaxaca city. I had some interesting travel companions with for the ride. Armando, my lift works as a driver transporting live stock to the slaughter house. The 4 hr drive took us through the Sierra Negro mountain pass. A marvelous view but also a scary one. Remember, they drive left hand drive cars on the right hand side of the road. So winding through this pass you get a real eye full off the sheer magnificence of the view, but also the drop-off that lies beneath. The concerning part is. All long haul drivers have a stature of the 'Lady of Gaudelupe' & when entering these treacherous parts of trips they usually give it a kiss or a stoke. Armando turned down the radio & held it in he's hand tightly, really tightly.
Eventually getting to Oaxaca at 8pm & after having endured the heart in the mouth ride, I was just looking for a place to lay my head. Oaxaca is a fantastic place with the remaining part of the mountain pass surrounding the town. As short as my stay was, really enjoyed it. I also had my first crazy guy folowing you experience. I noticed said crazy guy on my first morning in town. Minding my own business I went off to the local shop. He must have seen me there. After that I started noticing the same guy outside the shop, at the traffic light & everywhere else I turned. Having just watched 'Oceans 12' the previous night, I got into my George Clooney head space to lose my crazy. It worked. The night took me to the local hot spot called, 'Nude'. Not as clamorous as what you think nor was it a strip club. It was a live music venue & on that night they had a cover band playing in a boxing ring with the guy on keyboard sporting a gimp mask & the rest looking like bad knock-off's of the Village People. I had my second experience of craziness on my way back to the backpackers. Some local drunk was convinced  I owed him change from the ice-cream he had bought from me earlier. Crazy.

I was on route early the next day, after really taking advantage of the free breakfast at the backpackers. Hey, don't judge me. Next stop was Salina Cruz. After reaching Mitla, which is about 250 klm from Salina Cruz at 13.30, I  thought of heading to the local ruins. So rather than push on I decided to stay the night. Good choice. After grabbing a little touk-touk ride to the ruins, I was once again saddened by the destruction that man does in the name of God & country. The ruins, as with most of the ruins I've seen on the trip, was once home to a flourishing civilisation. As with most of these civilisations, they were either fully destroyed or completely by foreign invaders. And the one way to really inforce your beliefs upon someone, is to take what they hold most dear, the temples in this case, & build a huge sign of your own beliefs,cathedrals. They are spell boundimg in there own right.
Walking through these ancient structures with the wind whistling through the nooks & cravesses & the fading sun hanging in the distance was one for the memory bank. It was made even more special by the fact that the hords of tourists had long moved on, so I had the place to myself. I enjoyed the ambience & tranquility that comes from these treasures a bit too much. As I sat back in one of the old chambers I discovered that the gates had been shut. It was 17.30, the place shuts at 17.00. I found though that my fence jumping skills had not deserted me, & I think I nailed the landing. At least a score of 9 would be fair.

With overcast skies I set off for Salina Cruz. To be honest, I didn't think I would cover the entire 350 klm today. I started slightly later after going through the agony of my football team losing. We'll leave that just there. After 20min or so the sun decided to join me for the ride, a ride however was not forthcoming. After some poor renditions of 30 Seconds To Mars while standing on the side of the road, the cars passing surely thought I was nuts. One pick-up eventually pulled up.Must have seen my air-drumming technique & thought I had potential. Air-drumming is the future you know. He got me as far as a military check point. For the record, military officers don't take kindly to one flashing there camera's around. After explaining my situation, there send me on my way, after making sure I deleted the photo's. 15min later & I was off. And this time know cattle truck, know I was travelling in style. Air conditioned Quantum with a cooler box in the back.
What a week indeed. Almost certainly when we meet up next it will be from south of the border. About 500 klm from the border. Will be sad to leave Mexico. It's been all I've imagined & so much more. In saying that Gautemala is just such a crazy place. Can't wait.

Until that day ........